Northern Thailand: the mothership has landed

It’s the final leg of my journey and here to enjoy it with me is Lady Michael aka mum. We’ve rerouted to northern Thailand and we’ve got a little over a week to make some memories.

Our time began in Bangkok. The journey in itself was one I’ll never forget. I’m killing some time in my Khao Lak hotel lobby when I meet two Manchunians just checking in. After an hours chit chat they ask where I’m headed to next.

“Tell me you ain’t getting the tourist bus?”

I was about to get the tourist bus.

“Everyone gets robbed on those buses. They go through your luggage in the hold, and if they ain’t happy with what they find they’ll gas ya so you fall asleep and take what’s in your hand too.”

After a little sceptical googling it seems theft on this bus route is quite common, and one Australian news website has started the gassing rumour. So just to be on the safe side I spent the next 12 hours with my essentials down my trousers and slept with one eye open ready for combat at all times.

I made it to Bangkok airport with all my belongings intact in a half awake state, and arrived just in time to see mum walking through arrivals. The reunion was surreal. 

After much squeezing and squealing we jumped in a taxi ready to hit the city. The driver attempted to charge us double fare but with the lady that taught me how to hustle now with me, between us he had no chance!

We took a long-tail boat ride through the canals to get a feel for Bangkok. This city is a mix of old and new. Majestic temples stand next to riverside condos, modern shopping plazas contrast with the floating markets, and food stalls sit in front of shabby chic eateries. We visited the famous Khao San road, ate a good lunch in China Town and strolled through the endless markets. 

Many districts, temples and tuk tuk rides later it was time for dinner, mum’s treat. On the 78th floor of the Sky Tower building was a buffet food-dreams are made of. Every dish and cuisine you can think of fills the entire circumference of the floor. Stressed that we might not be able to fit everything in we made a plan of action and got to work, for 3 full hours.

The following evening we boarded the sleeper train to Chiang Mai. No allowances were made for Lady Michael, this was second class backpacker style. What a laugh we had. The lady serving our carriage guilt tripped us into dining in our seats for her commission, and in return kept us entertained the entire evening. We bedded down at 10pm waking with every emergency stop that threw us across our bunks. 

Then after not many winks of sleep we awoke to a beautiful sunrise and landscape that told us we were well and truly out of the big city.

Chiang Mai, although still a city, has more of a quant, laid back feel. Our first adventure in this region involved elephants, a lot of mud and a water fight! We visited the Chiang Mai Elephant Sanctuary in the mountains and learnt how to feed and bathe these gentle giants. They stood happily whilst we gave them a mud bath, then they led us to a nearby stream where they rolled around in the water playfully whilst we all washed off. 

I’m not sure who was bathing who at this point…

We then trekked (humans only) to a nearby waterfall for a well deserved dip.

The following day involved little more than yoga, noodles and massage. Feeling well rested we decided to hit a well known jazz bar that evening, North Gate Co-Op. The band were incredible. Almost through their set, suddenly an influx of cockroaches overtook the place, climbing the walls and scuttling over people’s feet. We quickly abandoned our drinks and ran out of the venue, deciding that was our cue for sleep in preparation for our journey the following morning to Pai.

Now, when you witness the driver popping a motion sickness tablet you have to wonder how bad the next 3 hours are going to be. 762 hair pin turns around the mountain is no easy task, but it was totally worth it.

Pai is a slow moving hippie town with smoothie bars on every corner, kitsch coffee shops in between, and vegan cafes if that’s your thing. With a backdrop of green it was the perfect place to spend the tail end of our trip. We reached the canyon just in time for sunset and enjoyed a quiet moment of appreciation.

We went for a dip in the natural hot springs, paddling in water so hot we pretty much got a facial at the same time. 

Then for our last afternoon, instead of partaking in the Thai cooking class I had lined up (as Lady M confessed that after 35 years of cooking for the family the last thing she wanted to do was stand in the kitchen and chop) we simply coffee shop hopped and sampled a different cake in each.

It was then time for home, and for one last highlight of the holiday.
Is it a bird, is it a plane…no wait, it’s definitely just a bird…

Sat right behind the pilot we enjoyed the scenic route back to Chiang Mai, and we now have a further 3 planes to cross the world back to London.

It’s home time.

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